chase the light

On our flight out of Fiji at 3:00AM or something we were greeted by a spectacular sunrise behind the wing of the plane. We had a bit of a layover in Auckland where we slept, then hopped our flight to Sydney. Since we were only going to be in Sydney for a day we hopped a cab down to the harbor and took a cruise. Eiffel Tower, check. Golden Gate Bridge, check. St. Louis Arch, check. Sydney Opera House, check. Yeah yeah, I know, but you can’t help it when you’re here. We took a water taxi around the harbor and got off at the extremely touristy Darling Harbor. For dinner I had some prawns that were so big I think they were actually lobsters. The Gay Games were also going on in Sydney, so the only hotel available was right by the airport. The Hotel Ibis also has a serious problem with the fire alarm going off at some ungodly time in the morning. I did come to the conclusion that if you participated in the Gay Games, you got a medal. I overheard a 5’2 woman at the airport talk about the medal she won with her basketball team! The two guys she was talking to won medals in some track event. One was kinda overweight. Even George’s neighbours in New Zealand won medals for some other event. Ok, the competition was probably lacking, but I heard it was fab-u-lous time for all.

Finally a real day of rest. At this point I was so tired I just hung out in the room and drank a lot of Fiji water. Hey, when in Fiji… Yes they really do get the water from here. Oh, and of course ate some more Pringle’s. I’m kinda sick of Pringle’s. Some of the other’s went shark diving, I slept. We have to leave at two in the morning and I’m not looking forward to the drive. I’m the only one insured for the van, so I have to drive. Gonna be a long night. Seeing how this was going to be the last night some of us will be together we all went to dinner. We also met up with some other Lord Of The Ringers that happened to be at the same resort and drank the night away.

After a long night of sleep without mozzies buzzing about, we settled in slowly at the Shangri-La Resort. We finally got a tropical sunset over the water. Somesthing we never got while out kayaking. That night we drove back into Nadi to meet up with Tony, or kayaking guide, for dinner and then hang out with the next kayaking group. Another group from Weta was arriving later that night. There is 14 of them, but I’m glad our group was only eight as it was probably a much more personal experience. Smartly no one drank the water at dinner tonight. The previous night everybody who drank the water at the restaurant felt sick. You try once, but learn quick. Obviously this is some sorta Beni-Hana we’re eating at.

Kadavu airport. Now offically the smallest airport I’ve ever seen. I thought one in Tahiti was small, but this one takes it. It’s a field with a large shed. We said goodbye to George and Waise back at Matava, and Petero, one of the other guides rode with us to the airport to say goodbye. Tony told us it’s the first time he’s ever come to the airport to see a group off. We built a really great friendship with him and it was really nice that he saw us off. The boat dropped us off at the other side of the isthmus and we had to walk over to the airport. It’s pretty much the only road on Kadavu. Lot’s of people were walking about and smiling as we walked by. We’re off to the main island now to the Shangri-La resort for a bit of reverse culture shock. A warm shower too.

On our last day of kayaking we all ended up in the village of Kadavu Koro. I rode the support boat into the village and it was straight out of “Apocalypse Now”. People were standing on the banks watching us motor slowly by, smoke was pouring out of some of the huts, etc. I just didn’t have a gun and we weren’t blasting the Rolling Stones or Hendrix. One of our guides was from this village and since I arrived by boat I got to meet his family. Four beautiful kids and one on the way. After a short time in the village Tony, George the guide, and I met up with the others at the waterfall. They had hiked from another nearby village and were already jumping into the water by the time I arrived. The time we spent at this waterfall is something I think we will never forget. Behind the village, a tiny crevice in a sandstone bluff, hides the ultimate bathing experience. Hundered’s of years of mountain runoff has gouged a huge chamber with a deep black pool and a 90 ft waterfall that cascades out of the jungle. Only one of us managed to get a camera up to the waterfall, but I have yet to see those. Jill captured the village better than anything I got, so that’s her photo below.

Yesterday we left Naqara village and kayaked along the south eastern shore of Ono and headed to Albert’s Place. We made a quick stop at Jona’s Paradise before heading across the channel to the main island of Kadavu. With a lack of sleep, I skipped the channel crossing and rode the support boat. The other 7 made it, but I was feeling exhausted and sunburnt and completely happy to enjoy the ride. I also got to take pictures of the crew paddling across the channel. Ono can be seen in the distance, and the dark area on the island is where the crossing started, and here is where it ended.

After last night’s arrival into the village we awoke this morning to the sound of rooster’s crowing, kid’s yelling, and a dogfight. I slept about 2 hours, if that. I’m going to be a wreck in the kayak’s today. We ate breakfast with about a 1000 flies. Not sure why there weren’t that many flies at dinner the night before, but wow. We were taken over to the school and got to meet the kids. They were totally amazing and they sang for us. They sang some traditional songs, and sang a version of “This Land is Your Land”. They sang the first half in fijian and the second half in english. They also reworked the lyrics to refer to things in Fiji rather than “redwood forests” and “gulf stream waters”. We all introduced ourselves and told them where we’re from and what we do. They do have access to DVD’s, so they had all seen movies, but I’m sure they didn’t really grasp what we really do. I told them I was from Los Angeles and geographically I think that went right over them. A map would have been handy about then. After about half an hour, we waved goodbye and I couldn’t help but think their school is probably like any school around the world. There’s probably a bully, a bookworm, an outcast, a jock, etc. A whole Fijian “Breakfast Club” sitting right in front of me. A real highlight of the trip.

This morning we set out in the kayaks. The coastline was spectacular with many beautiful sand beaches, green and blue bays, and picture perfect palm trees. That’s my kayak the “Screaming Yellow Zonker” at our midday stop about a quarter of the way around Ono. For lunch we had carbs. Carb salad, carbs on ice, fresh cut carbs, liquid carbs, and carbs in the shape of Pringles. Tonight we’re staying in the village of Naqara. I think we’re all excited yet anxious about what’s going to go on there. Lot’s of customs to follow. George was voted our “Ratu”, or Chief, as he’s the oldest and will represent us at the ceremonies.

Relaxed around Jona’s today. It’s Sunday, and all the Fijian’s left for church this morning so I grabbed my camera for a walk along the beach. I came across this huge crab. It was about 8 inches across and I kept taking photos of it. Getting closer and closer, I thought it would eventually run away. It never did. It was dead. So I erased about 10 photos and got one real good closeup. I took it back and put it in Jill’s bure to scare her. That didn’t work out so well, as she looked at it and ignored it. Dork, I probably could have predicted that. We got to end the day with a beautiful pink and purple sunset.

We flew down to Kadavu today, pronounced Kandavu (see the pattern?), and took a squirrely boat ride to Jona’s Paradise. Jona was a popular musician around Fiji and now lives here with his family. This is an island called Ono which is off the north eastern shore of Kadavu. The beach was beautiful and our bure’s were really nice. We relaxed here for two days playing in the kayaks and enjoying the layed back experience. The moment we arrived the mozzies started their relentless attack which would continue until the day we left. I somehow avoided the mosquitos for a few days until they all turned on me and ate me alive. I quickly caught up with rest of the group in number of bites.

Woo Hoo, Fiji!!!!!! We stayed in Nadi, pronounced Nandi, the first two nights. It’s a crazy little city with lots of sellers begging you into their shops. The hotel, the Tanoa, was nice enough, but the city was pretty sketchy. None the less, it turned out to be an interesting shopping experience. The swami temple at the edge of town is definitely the most interesting landmark in the city. I’ll spare you the ugliness of Nadi here, but within 30 secs. of sitting down outside a tourist shop, I was offered drugs and told about where to get some cheap cheap women. Um, no thanks, I’ve seen Midnight Express.

Ok, really the Louis Vuitton Cup, then the America’s Cup. We had a six hour layover in Auckland on the way to Fiji. So we checked our luggage and stored our carry-on’s at the airport. The long ass cab ride to Auckland harbor made me glad Weta wasn’t based here. We’re in Auckland, and the Cup is kinda a big deal even though I know practically nothing about it, so why not? Stars and Stripes is sponsored by Viagra. The boat must perform well with a stiff wind. Ugh, the cab ride back to the airport was at rush hour. Zoiks. On to Fiji tonight.

[ZORBING VIDEO LINK – 01:45 – 320×240 – 5.51mb]
Volcano’s, farm animals, and Zorbing? In one day?! No way! I’ve died and gone to heaven. Our second day on holiday begins with a bang. A helicopter flight out to White Island volcano, then a farm, and last but not least, Zorbing. Zorbing is a beautiful thing.

Jill and I arrived in Rotorua this morning after a total scramble to get out of Wellington. In the next month, We’ll be on a plane 13 times, a helicopter, boats, cars, kayaks, trains, buses, vans, taxis, a gondola, a ferry, a quadbike, and even a camel. More on that in the full blown vacation report. Anytime you see a sign like this it usually means you’re in the middle of absolutely nowhere. In a way we are, and it’ll sum up the whole journey. According to the sign L.A. is 6488 miles away and San Francisco is 6502. So San Francisco is only 14 miles from L.A.? …said the dumb guy.

[TWO TOWERS WRAP PARTY GALLERY]

The “golden ticket” to the exclusive Weta Digital Wrap party. No, you can’t go with me.

New Zealand’s funny in that you can do almost anything that you want too. Except genetically modify food. Want to tie a rubberband to your feet and jump off a bridge? Sure. Want to land a helicopter in a live volcano? Sure. Want your own fireworks show? Sure. Hurt yourself while doing any of those. Oh well. Your stupid. Sorry. A couple people from Weta threw a goodbye party on the beach and lit up the sky with some fireworks. And not with ground bloom flowers and piccolo petes. We’re talking loose your eyeball in an accident kinda fireworks.

Two days left in Wellington, and I’m completely packed and ready to go. As a bit of last minute sight seeing I finally ride the funicular by my house. Before you start a Google search. funicular: noun Date: 1911 : a cable railway ascending a mountain; especially : one in which an ascending car counterbalances a descending car. Exactly. What Merriam Webster said.

Last day at Weta, so it’s time for the crew photo. They really should have taken this 4 or 5 months ago when we weren’t all fat and pale. Visual effects make you ugly.

As the last week on Lord Of The Rings came upon us, we all found ourselves going to our favorite places to eat one last time. The combination of that and clear weather is always a good reason to go to the Chocolate Fish. On rainy days you go to the Chocolate Frog. The sister stores have slightly different menus, but only one is on the water.

[ISLANDER DANCING VIDEO LINK – 30secs – 192×144 – 566.3k]

The production company thought we deserved a little entertainment after all the hard work we’ve been putting in. Not sure why they thought Cook Island dancers were what we needed, but ok. It’s just not right watching Polynesian dancers on a motion capture stage with really bright halogen lamps illuminating every corner of the building. Where’s the sand, the tiki torches, and the giant pig cooked in the ground?